Outdoors with Don Q: Ookpik Wilderness Lodge on Babine Lake

Elaine and I just returned from a memorable visit to a very special place: It was our second visit to that remote, far-north locale. The first time was about 15 years ago, when Elaine and her late husband Jim McGee and I went there to film Canadian fishing experiences for our weekly TV show.

We were Co-Hosts for 12 years on a live, one-hour, weekly television show (The Outdoor Recreation Show), here in Carson City on CATV-10. That show featured all kinds of outdoor activities (including our own) such as hunting, fishing, ice fishing, hiking, camping, packhorse trips, cross country skiing, etc.
Jim passed away in May of 2000 and a few years later, I closed the show.

Elaine and I got married on March 30, 2002, and since then, we have traveled far and wide to such places as: Southeast Asia (Hong Kong China, Bangkok Thailand, Singapore Malaysia and Bali Indonesia), all over Italy (a 44 day vacation), Sicily, Switzerland, Denver Colorado, Carthage Missouri, Delrose Tennessee, Kauai Hawaii, Indio California, Yosemite National Park, Watson Lake Yukon, Banff Alberta, Cranbrook British Columbia, all over Alaska (14 times for me and 8 times for her), Great Basin National Park and even tiny Gerlach, Nevada.
One of the things we had wanted to do for a long time was to re-visit Ookpik Wilderness Lodge and this year, all the pieces of the puzzle came together.

Here is some information on our trip:
How we got there:
On August 16, we flew from Reno to Denver to Vancouver to Smithers, British Columbia and spent the night at the Hudson Bay Lodge.
The next morning, Helmut Hofmeister (he and his wife Caroll are the owners and operators of Ookpik Lodge) picked us up at 10:00 a.m.
He drove for two hours to Granisle, where we boarded their boat for a trip to the northeast side of Babine Lake, where the lodge is located.
We traveled 22 miles up the lake in a driving rainstorm, and when we arrived at the Lodge, Caroll and their little black dog "Cinder-Ella" were waiting at the dock to greet us, soaking wet from the rain.
They jumped in under the boat cover, joined us and we spent some very enjoyable time renewing our acquaintances with her and getting to know our new friend, Helmut, until the rainstorm stopped.

Babine Lake
Babine Lake is the longest natural lake in British Columbia. It is 95 miles long, 1-6 miles wide and is at an elevation of 2,300 feet.

By comparison, our own Lake Tahoe is about 22 miles long! The lake drains into the Babine River which drains into the Skeena River.

Babine Lake has Cutthroat Trout, Lake Trout (also known as Mackinaw or Char Trout), Rainbow Trout, Kokanee Salmon, Sockeye Salmon and Burbot.

Ookpik Wilderness Lodge:
Helmut and Caroll's remote lodge is on the Morrison Arm at the far end of the lake and can only be reached by either a boat or a float plane.

The Lodge derives its name of "Ookpik" from the native Inuit language of that area and it means "Snowy Owl."
The lodge is open each year from May through the end of August.
Accommodations at Ookpik Wilderness Lodge include a comfortable guest room in the main lodge building as well as four rustic cabins.

Each cabin is equipped with four luxurious bunk beds, down quilts and beautiful woolen blankets.
The four cabins include: A private porch overlooking the lake, wood burning stove, propane gas burner stove, candles and kerosene lantern for lighting, sink with running water, kitchen table and chairs, cooking utensils, dishes, cups, glasses, pots and pans.

One of the cabins is kept empty as it contains the only shower facility for the main building and all of the cabins.
The main lodge building consists of a "great room," dining room, kitchen, their bedroom, a bathroom and the guest room where we stayed.

The lodge is equipped with wireless internet access and has a large front deck containing a built-in hot tub (heated by a wood-burning stove).

Among the highlights of staying at the Lodge are the meals prepared by Caroll, who is an outstanding cook. All meals are prepared fresh, and are included in your stay. A sample menu includes:

Breakfast: A daily choice of selections of items such as: Fresh homemade biscuits, waffles, French Toast, toast, pancakes, or cinnamon rolls, Eggs Benedict, omelets, bacon, sausage, fresh fruit, juice, coffee or tea.


Lunch: Picnic lunches are packed for a day of fishing, where you enjoy a hearty sandwich with homemade bread, fruit, chips, and cookies.
Dinner: Light appetizers, followed by dinner and dessert with coffee or tea.

While we were there, our dinners for the three nights were:
1.Baked ham, sweet potatoes, potato salad, baked beans, mixed vegetables, homemade bread and warm peach cobbler with whipped cream.
2. Roast beef, boiled potatoes, brown gravy, peppers and mushrooms, baby carrots, homemade bread, and a choice of peach cobbler with whipped cream or "Mud Slide with Rocks" (chocolate brownie with a pudding filling, cherries, nuts and topped with whipped cream.
Dinner also included a choice of red or white wine.
Not too shabby for "roughing it" at a remote location.

Getaway packages:
Ookpik Wilderness Lodge offers special, one-week, getaway packages based on a 6-night, 7-day stay, which include:
Transportation from Granisle Marina and return.
One waterfront cabin,
One 20′ Carolina dory motorboat,
One tank of gasoline for the motorboat.
Use of all amenities (wireless internet, hot tub, canoes and kayaks, etc).
Breakfasts, lunches, appetizers, and dinners.
Getaway package costs:
One person: $1,700 C.
Two persons or a couples package: $2,500 C.
Family package (two adults/two children aged 12 and under): $2700 C.
Fisherman’s package (four adults – one cabin): $1,000 C per person.

Our experiences at the Lodge:
We had taken our fishing equipment to fish for some of the different types of fish that Babine Lake contains, however the weather gods decided we would not be allowed to fish: High winds, rough water, white caps and heavy rain.
So rather than being out on the water, we had an enjoyable time just goofing off at the lodge: Visiting with our hosts, taking short walks (because of the rain), taking photos, enjoying the solitude, relaxing, etc.
For information:
Call (778) 373-8793 Satellite or go to ookpiklodge@hotmail.com.

Bet Your Favorite Pigeon
Bet your favorite pigeon that he can't tell you the highlight of our visit to Babine Lake and the Ookpik Wilderness Lodge.
If he grins and says, "The totally dark nights, highlighted by only the cries of loons on the lake and the occasional howl of a wolf in the forest," he is one of many who we have told about our Canadian trip.

— Writer Don Quilici is the Outdoor editor for Carson Now. He can be reached at donquilici@hotmail.com